Wednesday, September 05, 2007

Mount Assiniboine


Mount Assiniboine Backpacking
June 23 – 24, 2007

As I was away for most of the spring, and would soon be leaving for the entire summer, it was important to squeeze in another awesome trip before it was too late. This was my last available weekend to spend with Brad before heading to work at the cadet camp, and initially our plan was to climb a multi-pitch route or two on Kid Goat near Canmore. However, after our great weekend at Cracker Lake the week before we both agreed that another weekend of backpacking would be ideal. After that decision was made, picking an objective was easy. Both of us really wanted to see Mount Assiniboine because we’d frequently read about its stunning beauty. Mount Assiniboine is considered the “Queen” of the Southern Rockies because it towers over all of the other peaks around it. It also has a symmetrical pyramid shape, drawing comparisons with the famed Matterhorn in Europe. That was enough to motivate us to make the 50km+ round trip in two days.

The trip started late on Friday afternoon, as Brad had to work and I had to finish up a final for my spring classes. We drove to Calgary, and after an obligatory stop at MEC, we were headed towards the mountains. We took two vehicles as I would be leaving straight for camp following the weekend. After parking my car at the library in Canmore, we drove out of town on the windy and bumpy Spray Lakes Road. Our drive out to the trailhead at Mount Shark, while dusty, was also filled with animal sightings. Because it was nearly nine and the sun was going down, all of the animals were out and about. We saw rabbits, elk, and deer. We also almost hit a young black bear as it came barrelling out of the trees and across the road. In order to get the driving out of the way, we decided to set up camp right at the trailhead. And while this was probably not allowed, I figured that we would start the day early enough to avoid getting caught. We parked the truck, brushed the dust off our packs, and set up the tent. Within twenty minutes, we were comfortably resting in our sleeping bags.

In order to get a good start on the 25+kms that we had to cover, we got up early. After a hurried breakfast and a double check of our packs, we were walking. The quickest and most popular way into Mount Assiniboine begins at the Mount Shark cross country ski trails, heading due west into Banff National Park. Continuing west, you’ll then head over Assiniboine Pass, and cross the border into B.C. and Mount Assiniboine Porvincial Park. For the first leg of the trip, the trail was wide and mostly flat. We cruised through the first 13 kms in 2.5 hrs, and found ourselves at the Bryant Creek warden cabin. This also marked the spot where the trail left the trees into an open alpine meadow. The views in this valley were stunning, and for the next 7 kms we were treated to huge limestone faces, delicate wildflowers and cascading waterfalls. The trail also became more interesting, as many parts had turned into mini creeks due to the melting snow pack. Luckily, detour trails had already been blazed, so we managed to get through without any wet boots. Soon enough, we began the climb up and over Assiniboine Pass. We gained about 300m in elevation over three kilometres as the trail wound its way up the hillside. Before we knew it, we had reached the top. We broke for a quick lunch at the summit before continuing on. From here, we had about 4 kms of downhill travel to arrive at the base of Lake Magog, where we would spend the night. Because we were now at a fairly high altitude (2100m), and it was still early in the season, there was quite a bit of snow left up top. It didn’t present too much of a problem, but on more than a few instances, we sunk up to our knees after a poorly placed step. So far, Mount Assiniboine had been elusive. But as we came down and around the final corner, we saw our first view of her. The peak was more impressive than I had imagined it would be. Above Lake Magog, a glacier hung in a meadow. Immediately to its left, Mount Assiniboine rose out of the ice as an equilateral and imposing pyramid. The peak still had a fair amount of snow on it, and the contrast between the white snow and dark rock only added to its stature.

At 1:45 we arrived at Mount Assiniboine Lodge, 5 hours and 45 minutes after setting out. We were treated by the staff to warm, fresh cookies, which was an awesome way to finish a long hike! After hearing that our intended campground was under knee-deep slush, we opted to stay in the Naiset Huts for the evening. These unfinished, rackety shacks didn’t appeal to the high end tourists at the lodge, but they were a luxury to us. Within a few minutes, we were stretched out in the sun on our “porch”, reading magazines and eating cookies. Later, we also opted to go for camper’s tea at the lodge From it’s deck, we enjoyed hot tea, fresh loaves, and great late afternoon views of Assiniboine. After a long walk around Lake Magog, we headed back to cook supper. Brad made a delicious cous cous concoction for dinner, and we sat in the cook shack and visited with an Australian couple who we’d met at the campsite. There stories were interesting, as they’d travelled nearly everywhere – including nine months spent in Africa living out of a Land Rover. By the time we’d eaten and cleaned up, we were ready for bed.

In the morning we were up early again, and quickly prepped for the hike back out. We hit the trail at around 7:30, and were soon up and over Assiniboine Pass and back into Alberta. The hike out went quickly, but towards the end our pace began to drag a little. My feet were blistered and sore from the distance travelled, and the last 5 kms was especially tedious. We arrived at the trailhead around 2PM, making the return trip in 5.5 hrs.

While the trail was flat and gentle most of the time, the distance we had travelled over two days had taken its toll on our bodies. We climbed into the truck tired and aching, but also satisfied at having accomplished another one of the goals on our hit list. A successful weekend all around!